Friday at New Orleans Jazz Fest

Jazzfest  - Friday 4/29

My plan for our last day at Jazz Fest was to camp at the Fais do-do stage,  to see Feufollet, Creole String Beans, and Honey Island Swamp band, with side trips to Gentilly  for Bonerama and the Revivalists  and Congo for Shamarr Allen, closing out at Acura with Paul Simon, whom I'd never seen before.  If we couldn't find a good spot at Acura we'd go back to Fais do-do for CJ Chenier.   It was sunny and breezy,  but the grounds were sure to be muddy from the day before, so I wore my old sneakers which were ready to be thrown out anyway, so I wouldn't mind if they got wrecked in the mud.  They were much better for walking than the hot rubber rain boots from yesterday.

We got there too late for Feufollet, so went for breakfast of Soft Shell Crab Po Boy and Crawfish Pie washed down with iced Cafe au Lait.  Ran into some friends from back home so we brought them over to the Threadhead meeting spot behind Ms Lena's beer stand.  That was a good place to eat in the shade, visit with friends and check in to our Southwest flight for the next day with the smartphone.   Across from there was the Belize Pavillion,  (every year at Fest they feature a different country) so we stopped in there to check out the display.  There was a drumming group playing , and 2 men carving instruments out of cedar, smelled so good! They let me try out the harp and the fiddle but I could not hear how it sounded with all the drumming.  The makers were going to play the instruments at 2:30 so I planned to return to see them.  They also had some really beautiful costumes and head dresses on display , that I could try on!





From there we finally headed over to Fais Do Do , too late to get a spot in the shade but we found room  for our little chairs near the back, unfortunately next to the Native American display where they were drumming nonstop between bands. We secured our chairs then went over to Gentilly for Bonerama and met up with a semi- international group of Thread-heads - Kathie and Greg from Canada, Jenn and Dave from New Orleans, ( flying an Aussie flag) , Bonnie from Boston, Mel from Louisiana, Matthew from Salt  Lake/ now residing in Poland.

Bonerama sounded great as usual,they did a cover of Led Zeppelin's Misty mountain hop, among other covers and originals.  There was a young blonde  kid maybe  10 or 12 playing guitar with them, I heard it was Matt Perrine's son.  How exciting to play in front of such a crowd!  After Bonerama  we were going to try and see a little of both Shamarr and Creole String Beans,  but decided it wasn't possible to see a good amount of both, so we made made our way back to our little chair camp at Fais DoDo.  Creole String Beans play swamp pop and Rock'n'roll  ala Fats Domino.   They had one pre-announced special guest (TK Hulin) and a surprise guest Bill Kirchen who kept things rocking.

On the break I went back to the Belize Pavilion to see the native instruments being played by their makers and learned they were keeping alive an  ancient Mayan musical tradition.    With all the noise from outside, it was hard to hear the string instruments until I went up by the  speakers.  The carved wooden harp and mandolin strung with nylon fishing line sounded about as primitive and basic as they looked.   But it had a soothing quality.  They play this music at all kinds of occasions on Belize, weddings, funerals, etc.

Returned to the chairs for Honey Island Swamp band.  Today was a really good day for finding friends - there were a couple of St. Louis Thread-heads  sitting in front of us.   HISB seemed to be playing a lot of new material, at least I wasn't too familiar with it (I only have their first CD) but it sounded good and rocking.  However the heat was getting to me ( even though we'd had a Mango Freeze while sitting there ) so I suggested a trip inside to the grandstand to cool off and use the real bathrooms.   As usual a very long line for the ladies room so I got to see a cooking demo waiting in line while Joe went to watch the band on the Lagniappe stage.     By the time I came out of the bathroom they were just getting ready to hand out samples of the dish - which was a vegan stir fried tofu with basmati rice, with a nice curry flavor.  Not New Orleans style but pretty good!  The chef explained she turned vegan after her mother died at  the age of 37 of heart disease  ( probably brought on by a southern meat-centric diet)

On the Lagniappe stage was a country bluesy rock band called Cary Hudson and the Piney Woods players.   This was my surprise of the day,  and so appropriate for a little something extra, or lagniappe as they say in Louisiana.  They sounded like early Rolling Stones ( eg. Hip Shake) or North Mississippi Allstars with the addition of a female singer and fiddle player.

Back outside to see the Revivalists on the big Gentilly stage. It had gotten a lot more crowded since Bonerama.  Music was good but unfamiliar, so I could not really get into it.  I can enjoy an unfamiliar band on a small stage, but to me, when it is so big it's hard to connect with if you don't  know the music.  We stayed for a while but never met up with anyone we knew there.  Returned to our chairs at Fais do-do where Los Lobos was doing an acoustic set of Mexican folk music, not their east L.A. rock sound.  This would have been good in a smaller venue but with all the background noise it was hard to hear from where we were so we packed up the chairs and headed over to Acura a little early where we found a spot in the bleachers.  I really like those bleachers, they are the sturdy wooden kind not flimsy aluminum and give a good vantage point.   It was almost the same spot we had been at the day before but way more crowded!   That's what a sunny breezy day and a big name headliner will do.

Paul Simon opened with a musical interlude of accordion and percussion  then into the opening track from Graceland (Boy  in the Bubble)  This was followed by "50 Ways to Leave your Lover" a couple of new songs then back to the tried and true like "Mother and Child Reunion" , "Me and Julio" , "Still crazy after all these Years " which really seemed to resonate with the crowd, who sang along.  A few more older songs  with the addition of pan flute ( I think ).  They sounded different but he sounded fine vocally and seemed upbeat with an acoustic guitar, wearing a white hat.  Good thing they have the big screens!  After about 45 minutes in the bleachers , I wanted to get down a little closer.  I could see the Threadhead flag flying over to the right near the inner track and we stepped our way through the muck to where my friend Neen was camped out with her Atlanta crew and other friends we know.  We were just in time  to dance to the zydeco -sounding  "That was Your Mother"   and listened to a few more familiar songs over there then said our goodbyes before heading out a little early to catch the bus, hearing a new song called "Wristband" on the way out.

All the walking  ( and restrained dancing)  over the past week had taken its toll on my knees! Instead of walking several blocks to Deanie's seafood we ate dinner at the nearby Cafe Giovanni, then went back up to hang out on the deck before packing up.  As they say,  Jazz Fest is a marathon not a sprint, and I was glad to enjoy the days I attended,   Even if it was only the half marathon.  That was plenty! And I was grateful for 3 good weather days out of 4.

Thursday at New Orleans Jazz Fest

Jazz Fest Thursday 4/28

Heavy rain was in the forecast for today so we headed straight for the blues tent while there were still plenty of seats available.   The Southern University Jazzy jags were on stage -  it was a large school band with 2 lead singers.  I got some food  to bring in ( Meaty white beans, Trout baquet and sweet potato pie)  so we were set for a while.   The rain started right on schedule, so Spencer  Bohren got play to a much larger audience than usual - there's always an upside to everything.  The band included  his son on drums, a woman named Aurora on accordion and clarinet, Alex McMurray on guitar, plus bass and B3.   They played mostly upbeat blues songs, some ballads, ( one where the son took  a turn on piano)  and a moving song about the impact of Katrina, called the Long Black Line ( referencing the  water marks on all the buildings).   Hard to believe it's been 10 years already!  At times the rain was so loud it sounded like applause, and you could see water gushing over the sides of the tent,  so we were in a good place.

Next up was Geno Delafose and French Rockin Boogie, a zydeco band I've seen numerous times at festivals back home.  Normally they would not play in the Blues tent, because that venue does not usually allow dancing - if you even get up to take  pictures, security hurries you back to your seat.  I am not sure why they booked them there instead of Fais Do Do.  If it weren't for the rain I wouldn't even have gone to the tent to see Geno, how can you sit still for that music?  However,  there were enough people determined to dance that they broke the rules and all the corners of the tent were bopping and two-stepping to the zydeco grooves of Uncle Bud, Johnny Billie Goat, Jongle a Moi and more.  They also had a much bigger audience due to the weather and featured other band members doing material I haven't heard them do before.  The bass player sang a really nice version of Tell it Like it Is, and the guitarist and rub-board player also took turns singing.

At the end of the set the sun came out, but I wanted to see Meschiya Lake again, because most bands kick it up a notch for their Jazz Fest set.   The band we had seen at the Patry was augmented by 2 swing dancers, and a couple of extra  horns, and she looked like a tattooed Rosie the Riveter.   I liked her version of Indian Red, and her version of Que Sera Sera almost brought tears to my eyes because I remember my mother singing that song when I was a kid.

When we left the tent we headed over to Gentilly to see Brandi Carlile.  They were playing the hit " Wherever  is your Heart" when we approached.  She looked so excited to be there, I think it was her first time playing the Jazz Fest.  The ground was wet and muddy and she kept thanking the audience for hanging in there, they didn't seem to mind.   The band was great and also added some really nice harmonies, especially on the song "the Eye" .   She mostly sang but also played guitar and piano and looked really cool,with her headband.   It was a really engaging performance, best of the day IMO.

After Brandi we headed over to get some Crawfish Monica then try out the bleachers at Acura for Tedeschi Trucks.   The bleachers are a new addition to the fairgrounds which they put up to alleviate the crowding of chairs on the track on busy days.  It was nice because we didn't bring chairs this day (as we spent so much time in the tent) and it was  cloudy so not too hot, and not crowded so we didn't have to climb up.  It was really far back but the sound was good and you could see the screens.  I've seen Susan Tedeschi before but not with this band.

They were great with a horn section, and I love her soulful bluesy singing.  After about 45  minutes they brought out some special guests, Jimmie Vaughan ("Let the a good times Roll" , "I Like it like that" ) the Billy Gibbons from ZZ Top joined them for a few, including a tribute to BB King.  skies threatening again, I started making my way out a little after 6 pm, but stopped by Economy Hall to hear a little of Tuba Skinny.

We lucked out and got right on a bus and were back at the hotel by 7:20.   My feet were hurting from walking around in rain boots  all,day so didn't go back out except around the corner for  a bite to eat.

12th Annnual Threadhead Patry

Twelfth annual Threadhead  patry

For me and my friends, the  best part of the  Jazzfest week happens on the Tuesday between festival weekends, the Threadhead patry.  What began as a casual gathering of friends has turned into a mini Fest within the fest.   This article explains it pretty well http://www.neworleans.me/journal/detail/1215/Unraveling-the-Threadhead-Patry

Here's  my take on the 12th edition:

We got on the #5 bus to the Marigny around 11:00 am to go to the old Ironworks and met up with some patry virgins.   After telling the newcomers "don't worry we know where to get off" we almost missed the stop because we were so busy yacking  with some other longtime friends/ patry goers who got on at the next stop.  When we arrived the line was pretty long and Meschiya Lake was already playing.  It takes a while to get in because we know everyone at the check in table and many in line, so you give and get a lot of hugs and chit chat along with your wristband.   However, it is a lot different than the early days when it was 50 then maybe 100 people.  Now there are over 300 guests and I would say I know about 100 of them.  The majority are also friends on Facebook.   My newsfeed comes alive on patry day!

They were serving brunch when we arrived, but I'd never seen Meschiya Lake & the Little Big Horns before so I opted to watch the show rather than eat, because the new people we'd  met on the bus said she's really something to see not just hear and they were right.  She sings old-time jazz/ swing music and sounds pretty traditional but is covered with tattoos and rocks the vintage look.  The band consisted of a New Orleans power trio (guitar tuba and drums) plus a multi instrumentalist who played fiddle and clarinet.  It was a good set to start with while sipping on a moonshine Bloody Mary ( all the food and drinks are included ) and dancing a little.


Near the end of the set I made my way inside and most of the breakfast food  was gone.  I got the last piece of spicy sausage with some grits and a really delicious donut.  That would hold me over til the crawfish was ready. Next  up on stage was the legendary rock band Royal Fingerbowl, led by Threadhead fave guitarist/ songwriter Alex McMurray.   I remember seeing them one of my first times at Fest around 20 ago and really liking them but then never again, I think they broke up.  So it was a good rocking/ eclectic set. Matt Perrine played stand up bass and they also had drums and B3.

Roddie Romero and the Hub  City all stars from Lafayette followed,  and to my surprise it was more of rock and roll sound. Last time I saw them they were more Cajun sounding, but that is probably because it was at Rhythm and Roots. There was an accordion on stage but Rod played guitar for the most part.  It was good upbeat music to dance to, as much as I could.  I was still a little hampered by my knee and and the uneven ground, but I really can't sit still when I hear good music.   Finally he picked up the accordion for a rocking version of Big Mamou, but to my dismay there was no rub board.  I played air rub board hoping for one to materialize but no  such luck.

The first 500 lbs of crawfish had gone quickly but the second batch was ready after Roddie Romero so I went I to have some.  Hot spicy and delicious! But such a mess. After I had my fill I cleaned up and went out to take my turn tending bar at the Moonshine table.   Midnight Moon was a sponsor this year but unlike New Orleans Rum and Zatarains, I guess the company didn't send any reps to dispense the product, so Threadheads signed up to take turns tending bar for one hour at a time. The Patry is a labor of love and many of us pitch In to help with check in, raffles, tending bar, cleanup.   Other times I've poured beer or helped with check in. None of these seem like work because you're meeting and talking to people the whole time, helping  everyone enjoy.   So we were dispensing premixed peach moonshine tea, bloody Mary's and other flavors like strawberry or blueberry mixed with lemonade or Sprite. It was the fastest  hour of the patry for me.  From that spot you ca hear the music fine, and can see a little.

At the end of my bar tending stint I went up front to catch the rest of Johnny Sansone.  He was going nuts on harmonica and looked so festive in a lime green print shirt.  During the last song he came out into the crowd and danced among us, what a wild man!  I though it might turn into a mosh pit with crowd surfing but that's the next generation.  We were moshing in our minds.

Cha Wa Mardi Gras Indian band were just perfect to have near the end of the day, because the late day sun made their colorful costumes look even more brilliant.  The two singers / were accompanied by 2 trombones, trumpet, tuba, guitar and b3 organ and drums. Lots of classic New Orleans songs and chants to remind us of the cultural component.

Last band was the Iron Funk all stars which appeared to be a version of Dumpstaphunk, and they didn't skimp on the funk! They did some good cover songs, like a funky version of David Bowie's  Fame and Steve millers Fly like an Eagle.  By now I was getting pretty tired and still couldn't resist dancing, but was ready to leave a few minutes before it ended to try and get a cab.  We waited a while then piled in to our favorite cab driver's van with 7 other Threadheads.   What a blast! A ten hour party sounds like a long  time but it just flew by! We are so lucky to be involved with this group. A day at the patry is like a bonus day at Jazzfest, every band that plays there has also played at the Fest, and all the food and drinks included you can't go wrong, especially being among so many friends in a more intimate setting than the fairgrounds. And let's not forget  the raffles,  both  online and at the party.   I don't want to quote the amount at the risk of being wrong, but it was a lot of money raised for  Threadhead Cultural foundation to help keep the music and culture of our beloved city alive, and come back for another one next year! To learn more about the Threadheads and all the projects we've supported over the years, please visit http://threadheads.org/

New Orleans Jazz Fest 2016 ( First weekend)

New Orleans Jazz Fest 2016 First  weekend

2016 marks the 20th anniversary of my love affair with New Orleans Jazz and Heritage festival. (skipped last year but returned this year for my 17th.)   The festival is 2 consecutive weekends. Fri/Sat/Sun  last weekend in April, and Thursday through Sunday first weekend of May.  I've  never done all 7 days of the festival but  I like to go for a week and do some of each weekend plus the "daze between".  Here's my jazz fest journal from the first weekend:

Day 1 4/23

Hit the ground running Saturday - plane landed at noon, we hooked up with our regular cab driver we've known for 10 years now, who brought us to the hotel where we did a quick check in and off to the fairgrounds by 2 pm.  I found my way to our friends' camp at the Gentilly Stage where Tab Benoit was getting ready to come on, but no one we knew was there at the time, they must have been off getting food or seeing something else.    I love Tab but I've seen him plenty of times in small venues, where it is a much different and better experience, so was not really into it.  We stayed for about 30 minutes waiting for the gang to return but hunger took over, since we only had a egg sandwich in the airport at 6 am, and Southwest peanuts and pretzels on the flight.   The food area was packed with long lines. I was going to get some fried chicken but the line was not moving at all so I opted for a combo of pecan  crusted catfish Meunière and seafood Mirliton casserole.  Joe had a combo of Spinach/ artichoke /seafood casserole and sweet potato pone.  Yeah, this is not your average festival fare.  The first time you go it's surprising, but the food is such a big part of the festival you quickly get used to sampling restaurant quality food out of paper plates and plastic forks standing around in the sun with several thousand dining partners.  This started way before food trucks made it seem almost commonplace.   The hardest part is deciding what to try - there is so much to choose from!

After lunch we went to the Economy hall tent just to get out of the sun and have a seat listening to some traditional Dixieland .  The dancers were doing their thing, snaking their way through the aisles in a joyous second-line hoisting their umbrellas and waving their kerchiefs.  I saw many familiar faces there and was happy to be back!

Returned to the camp, and met up with some of the  group there.   It was difficult picking my way through the crowd which was really packed with people., chairs, tarps, and no aisles.  I'm nursing a knee injury and am fine with normal walking but not so much with the kind of maneuvering it takes to navigate a crowd like that.   But I made my way in to see  Nathaniel  Rateliff  and the Night Sweats, whom I'd never seen before but heard on radio and seen on Austin City.   Well I didn't see them much now either, as we were pretty far back and had to stand to see the video screen.  The music was soulful and danceable, and sounded great with the horn section.  Some of it kind of reminded me of Eric Lindell's band, and a little Van Morrison  who was up next.

40 minute set break, seemed like a good time to get a beer but again the crowd was so dense at the nearest beer stand. I waited a long time with no progress and just getting jostled by people trying to pass so I moved to another stand closer to the Fais do do stage.  I heard a tune that was familiar, and not, at the same time.... What was it... good ol Rocky Top!   Played  on electric guitars  with a horn section by a band called the Brothers Osborne! This was my favorite moment.   I stuck around for a couple more songs ending with "The Shape I'm In" recalling the famous Toussaint-arranged horns.  I then made my way back to Gentilly for Van Morrison,  where a bunch more Threadheads had returned and were grooving and chilling out on the tarp.. I had never  seen Van Morrison live before ( He had in his signature hat, jacket and dark glasses) so I really enjoyed hearing a lot of familiar songs and  some good jams with friends.   I heard some people comment that it was "too mellow". But I thought it as a great way to end the day.

Started making our way out on the last song ( Gloria) to  meet up with some other friends we hadn't seen in a long time.  They had a car so we were going to get a bite to eat and catch up/ visit with them.  We tried going to Parkway bakery but the line was all the way around the building and not moving.  Then tried Buds Broiler, which didn't look crowded but after waiting there for several minutes and no movement ( this was the theme of the day) we went to a place called Riccobono's  Cafe Navarre http://cafenavarre.com  Perfect! Not too crowded but still open, good service - and prices, four  of us had beers/ po boys / Cuban sandwich for $60 + tip.

Planning a trip like this sounds great on paper as you don't have to waste a day just traveling but I wouldn't recommend it.  Getting up at 4 am to catch a 6:50 flight out of Providence  and then a half day of festing is exhausting!  So I was in bed before 11 but after a good night's sleep I was ready for another day!


Day 2 Sunday 4/24

Woke up and went to sit out on the sundeck of our timeshare to have coffee.  It's a pretty nice place just steps from the bus stop to Fest but we were in a small ADA room. We didn't think about it much when we first checked in  since we wanted to get to the Fest. But  on a closer look we decided we would try to switch rooms as soon as possible.  More on that later.

Waited for about a half hour for the bus - it's so maddening seeing it there at the end of the line but not moving.  Was tempted to take the streetcar (2 came before the bus) but the bus gets you closer and is faster when it finally gets moving.  Finally we boarded and were on our way.  It's so much better entering the fairgrounds closer to opening time at 11, instead of in the middle of the day like we did Saturday.  It's less crowded, you can get your bearings, plan the day and most importantly get something to eat without waiting in long lines! My breakfast was a Cajun duck po boy and Joe had the paneed chicken sandwich ( lightly breaded/ pan fried) .

First stop was the Alison Miner stage in the grandstand to see an interview with Rhiannon Giddens, of the Carolina Chocolate Drops and who has just released a fantastic solo album produced by Tbone Burnett.  She was doing a set later that day we were looking forward to the most but it sometimes is fun to get more personal insight from the artists in an interview.  She talked about her country heritage and the black string band tradition from North Carolina, told stories behind some of her songs, experience of touring , history, family,  life on the road,  playing at the Grand ol' Opry and instruments.  Her current favorite is a fretless  5 string banjo with no resonator and gut strings so it has a more mellow tone than what we're used to.  She played and sang  a few songs on that instrument and at least one on fiddle.

We went from there to see Leyla McCalla,ex-Carolina Chocolate Drop and current resident of New Orleans ( from Haiti) who was performing on the Lagniappe  stage  with her band that included her daughter on viola.   She got her start in  New Orleans playing baroque classical Cello with a group of children that still does busking outside the Jazzfest!   ( I think she may have been one of the teachers) and now she plays  on a stage.  Leyla also plays banjo sings and writes songs. Rhiannon joined her  for a few songs too.


Next I wanted to see this band called at Royal Teeth! I don't know why....it's a younger band, touring nationally but  from Louisiana and they were playing on the Gentilly stage.  I just like to see something different I wouldn't normally go  for.  They were ok, kind of smooth sounding "indie-pop".   They had to work hard to get the crowd to sing along with something, seemed kind of forced.  And it was easy to get up front not like  the day before .  That should have told me something.  meanwhile Joe had gone to see Glen David Andrews in the blues tent and get a spot for Rhiannon.   I heard later it was a killer set and should  have gone there.   Oh well that's the beauty of Jazz Fest it offers a thousands of different experiences,  that's why you want  to go back again and again.  It so fun to trade stories with your friends, everyone has a different experience and collectively you can get it all.

On my way to the  blues tent I got a mango freeze and stopped to listen to Dede Saint-prix from  Martinique at Congo Square . He and his band were having no trouble getting the crowd to sing and dance along, to the carefree Caribbean music. And the crowd was really having a good time. But if you watch the Fest on AXS TV there will probably show Royal Teeth instead. ( that's where the cameras were) .  I also has caught some of Beausoleil on  Fais Do Do befor e finally catching up with Joe at the Blues tent just as Glen David was finishing up.

So we had a good spot for Rhiannon Giddens just 10 rows back on the side.   She was joined by her Carolina chocolate drops band mates and Dirk Powell on accordion and fiddle. At first there were sound problems, drums too loud .. drowning out her beautiful voice. But they made some  adjustments .  She did some material from the album like the Patsy Cline cover "She's got You" and some  CCD material.  She was the hit of the Fest!  Even getting an encore where they did "hit em up Style" .  And they seldom let artist do encores at the festival, since it's on a tight schedule.

Johnny Lang was scheduled to close  that stage but had to cancel so they got John Mayall.  I'd never seen him before but wanted to see little of the Red Hot Chili peppers , while Joe stayed put.  (I promised to bring  him back a beer when I returned ) .  So I slinked my way into the very dense crowd to hear a little of the Chili Peppers-  so packed really not too enjoyable from where I was standing.  I can see it on AXS tv maybe next weekend.  Back in the blues tent, John Mayall was sounding  great! playing keyboards and harmonica and leading his band through some good upbeat jams.  He had a notebook not an iPad on the keyboard and I did a great version of the Neville's Congo Square.  He had played guitar also before i got there. I don't think anyone missed Johnny Lang.

Headed out to the bus stopping briefly at Liuzzas to catch up with friends. When we got back to the hotel we were able to upgrade to a much larger nicer room.  This took some time and kind of killed any idea of going out to see more music that evening but was worth it.  We had a late dinner at Creole House around the corner and before turning in for the night.